A Zion and Bryce Canyon Recap

Introduction and background.

It already feels like a lifetime ago. Regardless, I still want to take a few (or several) minutes to recap a great trip out to Utah at the end of 2023 - Time spent exploring the Zion National Park area for a handful of days, one of which was dedicated to Bryce Canyon. It wasn’t a trip I was anticipating all year, but as the cliché goes, when one door closes another one opens. Let me catch you up.

I’m a runner, and it’s part of me that goes back even further than my high school days. Cross country, track, road races… all of that good stuff. It was after college that I began pursuing longer distances. Work provided an opportunity to run the Boston Marathon in 2013, and it kind of took off from there. Starting with that Patriots’ Day, I have since run Boston twice more (making it three consecutive years), as well as marathons in Detroit, Syracuse, Lake Placid, Berlin (my bucket list race), and finally Mount Desert Island in 2022. There were also numerous half marathons, 24 hour relay races, so on and so forth. But in 2023 I set my sights on a different challenge - trail races. It seemed to make sense considering my love for hiking, and the concept sounded a little less punishing than pounding 1000 miles of pavement annually. So, I circled the Death Valley Trail Marathon on the calendar, scheduled for early December, and got to work. It seemed a good opportunity to challenge myself in a different way, and of course explore and photograph a new landscape as a side quest.

Unfortunately Death Valley was subject to severe flooding last year, washing out many of the roads, including part of the race course. Death Valley was closed to flooding. Go figure, right? The race was officially canceled, but not until the trip was, for all intents and purposes, fully booked. No worries! My better half and I decided we would just drive in a different direction after touching down in Vegas. And that’s how we ended up visiting Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks last December.

Generally speaking, when it comes to visiting the parks my preference is usually to camp, especially in the backcountry. But given the time of year and the last minute nature of this trip we opted for the life of luxury at Zion Lodge for the duration. It worked out fine. Not the same kind of adventure, but the temperatures did drop pretty significantly at night, and I’m not going to lie that it did make it easier to see more of the park and the surrounding areas over our five days. Oh, and managing photography gear? That was decidedly easier as well. Since this is a photography blog, let’s talk gear for a second…

Leading up to this trip I made the decision to trade in some gear and gift myself a new camera - my Z7 II. The Z6 II will always be my workhorse, but when file size is not an issue, like for a landscape photography trip, cranking it up a notch was an easy decision. As for lenses, I went with my bread and butter 24-70 f2.8, the super wide 14-30 f4, and the ‘do everything on a budget’ 24-200 f4-6.3. It pained me a bit to leave my 70-200 f2.8 home, but knowing I was probably going to be lugging around some winter hiking gear all week on top of the usual stuff, it seemed like a decent time to put that zoom to work. There were compromises, but ultimately I was happy with that choice. The lighter pack was appreciated, and given the temperatures I was pretty content sticking that lens on at the start of a long hike and not feeling the need to stop regularly to swap things out. And honestly? It’s just a fun lens to use. It weighs absolutely nothing, takes up no space, and is just super versatile. Way more pros that cons. Beyond that, I brought my usual accessories - the Peak Design Travel Tripod, polarizing filters, so on and so forth. I said I wanted to hike with a lighter pack, so I lived out of the Burton F-Stop 28L. All of that stuff fit fine, along with the outer layers needed for the season. I now realized I’ve rambled for several paragraphs without even getting to the actual adventure stuff. I’ll do my best to break this trip down by day, by hike, and the scenes that stuck with me most.

Day 1: Emerald Pools, Sand Beach, and The Watchman.

Staying on Eastern Time, we broke trail before sunrise, something like 6:00 AM. It was a short stroll up to the Emerald Pools from the hotel, and the terrain was easy. But it was cold. And one thing was apparent pretty quickly - lighting was going to be an interesting factor to work with. Zion Canyon is nestled in there pretty good and that factor, coupled with the time of year, meant the views were pretty flat in those early hours. But that was alright. The Emerald Pools were… neat. Probably the wrong time of year to get the most out of them because the water levels were definitely lower, but there wasn’t another person near us the entire hike and gentle sound of water in all the quiet was certainly special. We extended that hike to the Sand Beach Trail and that loop was when it first hit me that, yeah, we were in Zion. The light broke brilliantly, the rolling hills offered tremendous views of those unique Zion cliffs in all directions, and the diverse flora that lined the trail meant each turn, each step, had something new to offer. This loop concluded at the Court of the Patriarchs, and it was the light hike back to the Lodge along the river where I took the first of many memorable photos of the week. Two trees on either side of the wide path, which was closer to a dirt road in all honesty, framed a wonderful scene. The cliffs were in the background, the colors of the late season were popping in the early light, and there was quiet. I love the aesthetics of this moment, but as is always the case with my photography, the memory attached to it is what matters most. This was the finish line of the first hike on the first day in Zion. And everything was perfect.

After a bit of a break for, I don’t quite remember what, we added The Watchman hike later in the day. Originating from the Zion Canyon Visitor Center, this trail involved a bit more elevation and I suppose was a bit more technical, but still only required a few miles of hiking. The views, however, were awesome, both of The Watchman towering over us from the South and looking North up into the canyon. There was a bit of drama however as we encountered an injured hiker at the top. Fortunately, they were not on their own, we exchanged contact information, and caught up with the rangers that were hiking up to offer support. From what we understand everything worked out alright. Still unfortunate, and I feel lucky I’ve never been in that situation. All that aside, this was a good afternoon hike, with a high return on investment. So far I was pretty satisfied that we managed a few different hikes this first day, probably totaling 12-15 miles in full, while still making time to hang out in Springdale for shopping (minimal), and food and drink (not at all minimal). Shoutout to Zion Canyon Brew Pub for their repeated hospitality over the course of the week. Day 1: Success.

Day 2: Along the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway.

The second day did not start nearly as efficiently. We were awaiting the arrival of the two other members of our party for the week, and took a chance on a drive out of the park to Kanab. We heard talk of dinosaur tracks, slot canyons, and all kinds of other fun stuff. Unfortunately, we failed to do any proper research, and as a result failed to find any proper trail. We did stop at The Belly of the Dragon back toward the Mt. Carmel Junction, which was at least an excuse to stretch the legs in the freezing weather, but ultimately we started the day with a three hour drive. Oh well. You win some and you lose some.

Things rebounded nicely, however. The drive out that way did provide the opportunity to hit everything on that side of the park on the way back. The petroglyphs were especially surreal. Not far from the road, but not an obvious trail either, I was happy that this stop was empty beyond ourselves, because seeing these ancient writings in person definitely deserved a moment of reflection. This was probably the high point of the day. For what it’s worth, these aren’t the only petroglyphs in the park, and another location is right near the same visitor center. Unfortunately, those were subject to some pretty brutal vandalism. So let’s be clear for a moment - It takes a pathetic excuse for a human to deface an artifact like that.

Now that that sentiment is out of my system, let’s get back to it.

The next stop in our day was the Canyon Overlook Trail, which terminates above The Great Arch. It was a fun round trip, only about a mile, and it might have provided the best views out of all of these hikes. The trail hugged a steep cliff the entire way, and the resulting views into the canyon were stunning. Not a ton to say from the photography side - I captured all of the household views one should, relaying on the 24-70 most of the time. The sun was out, haze was minimal, and it was just a great day to be out snapping photos. Oh. And the Peak Design Capture clip thing is officially my best friend. That was a requirement when I decided to use the Burton. As much as I love that backpack for hiking, the lack of side panel access calls for such an accessory. Eventually the rest of our party arrived and, you guessed it, the brew pub beckoned us once again. Day two was in the books.

Day 3: Riverside, Scouts Lookout, Sunset at The Watchman.

The third full day in Zion was undoubtedly the most… classic? We start with the Riverside Walk in the early morning and carried it to The Narrows. Despite the freezing air (and water) temperature we chanced the first crossing to get a better look up the river into Mystery Canyon, keeping the camera gear safe and dry of course. But that was as far as we made it, and if I had one single regret from this trip it’s not pushing this hike further. In hindsight, the cost of renting the gear and the hours spent would have been worth it. I think. Oh well!

That checked off the list, we doubled back, swapped in some dry footwear, and hit the Kayenta Trailhead. We had booked Angel’s Landing permits, and as we covered Walter’s Wiggles and reached Scout Lookout, the jury was still out on whether or not we would attempt it. Well, we didn’t. Generally speaking, I’ve always appreciated the view of the mountain more than the view from the mountain, and seeing the unending line of hikers in front of me with virtually no space between them, we decided that adventure wasn’t for us. Instead, we continued along the West Rim Trail where we experienced probably my favorite views of Zion to that point. Being from Northern Appalachia, and familiar with rugged, barely discernable trails that challenge your balance, joints, and muscles all at the same time… the paved trail up to this point was a bit, I don’t know, frustrating? I certainly understand why the trail is established the way it is, and respect those reasons completely, it’s just not what I personally look for in a trail. That said, once we hit the West Rim Trail, we were in business. The crowds diminished, the views opened up, and it felt more exposed and remote. It was awesome, completely justifying the journey up.

Of course, after covering all of this mileage and elevation, all in the first several hours of the day, the rest of the afternoon and evening were far more relaxed. Timing out the lighting for a change, and finally putting the tripod to use, we ventured down Pa’rus Trail to catch the sunset as it hit The Watchman. I learned quickly that the rising and setting sun in the canyon is a brief experience. Still, with only a few minutes to work with, I was at peace seeing how quickly and dramatically the color and light changed on what had just become my favorite mountain in the park. Day three was over, and a trip to Bryce Canyon was in wait.

Day 4: Bryce Canyon.

By day four, I was ready to get out of Zion for a bit. Nothing against the landscape or the scenes, of course, but with this much time in a completely unfamiliar part of the world, I wanted to bite off something else while the chance was there. Once again waking up around sunrise, Bryce Canyon was a solid two hours away if I recall correctly. Not nothing, but doable for a day trip. We arrived at the park before the visitor center opened, and as a result decided to drive up to Sunset Point to kill a few minutes and take in the early morning light. Let me tell you - the views of the amphitheater with the snow-capped hoodoos in the golden orange light was nothing short of breathtaking. Or maybe that was just the cold air. Either way, after a few minutes of taking it in, we doubled back to the visitor center to scoop up some final provisions, like foot traction we never needed, before deciding on a good day hike. And the trip that was recommended to us was perfect.

Wanting something a little more substantial than the hikes we had been doing so far this trip, we were directed to a hike that involved a couple of loops - The Queens Garden Trail connecting over to the Peek-A-Boo Loop Trail. I can’t remember the exact distance, but seven miles sounds about right. It took between three and four hours, for what that’s worth. This was the most enjoyable hike of the entire trip, and I still feel confident saying that a few months later. I was a little curious what the terrain would be like with the snow and ice, but the switchbacks were gradual and well-groomed, and there had been enough recent warming that the snow was sticky and easy enough to navigate. As we descended into the canyon and the hoodoos began to tower over us rather than us over them, it truly felt like we were on another world. The trails were quiet, the air was calm, and the winding canyon trails offered one mesmerizing scene after another. It was cold, but I’m still extremely happy that we were able to explore this area in the winter. The snow made for a contrasting hike experience - As the sun was getting higher in the sky some stretches were exposed, bright, and warm, and then you’d walk through one of the many doors or tunnels, especially on Peek-A-Boo, and you’d be engulfed in shadows and cold, completely changing the perspective. Simply put, this hike gave us so much.

This was also the hike where I really put my 24-200 to use. Because of the temperatures and the super dynamic scenes, near and far, I really didn’t want to stop every few minutes to change lenses. There was enough light that the variable f/4-6.3 was never an issue. Having the ability to zoom all the way into the Wall of Windows or Thor’s Hammer, and then just as easily scale back to capture sweeping wide views of the hoodoos against the trail or looking over the amphitheater from the Rim Trail was exactly why I made the (very modest) investment in this lens. Yeah, it probably would have been good to have a polarizer snapped on this thing, something I don’t actually own for this lens, but I still ended up with plenty of images I was happy with.

To wrap up, after all of this - All of the stunning otherworldly views, the miles covered and miles driven, we were still back in Zion Canyon in time for a late lunch. Another day down, and possibly the best one yet.

Day 5 - Kolob Canyon.

For our last day we set out to the quiet side of the park, Kolob Canyon, starting immediately after a quick breakfast. I’ll start by saying that if anyone ever finds themselves with a few days to spend in Zion, half of one of those days, at least, should be spent in Kolob. While the Taylor Creek Trail we took didn’t necessarily offer the exact same drama as Zion Canyon, the remoteness of this winding path definitely made up for it. It was absolutely freezing since the morning light never crested the parallel cliffs until the very end of the hike, but that was totally fine. The frozen plants lining the trail made this a completely different kind of hike than what we had experienced in the park so far, exactly what we were looking for on the final day. The trail terminates after only a few miles at the Double Arch, a truly immense feature, and the return was blissfully relaxing as the sun slowly began to warm the canyon.

Once again, we were back in Zion Canyon by the afternoon. After stopping for a quick drink in Springdale we set up shop along the Virgin River near the Court of the Patriarchs where I sipped down a couple brews and dove into a new book. It also happened to be the warmest it had been the entire trip at this point. It was a perfect way to wind down on the last day of one last adventure in 2023.

Closing Thoughts.

Zion had been high on our list for a few years, so needless to say I’m glad this trip worked out even if it might have been a backup plan. It’s easy to say a week is more than enough time to experience Zion, and it did feel that way, even with day trips out of the canyon. But at the same time, I think back now and realize just how much we didn’t see. What if we skipped Kanab and focused more on the West Rim Trail? What if we opted to actually use our Angel’s Landing permits? What if we spent the full day in Bryce Canyon instead of only half of a day? And those are just an obvious three. At the end of the day, these parks offer quite literally limitless adventure. There will always be more to see and do. You’ll never experience everything. Even if you live near one of these incredible places, the time we are afforded to explore them is finite. When you’re outside, nothing will ever look exactly the same way twice. Time doesn’t stop, and everything is in constant motion relative to everything around it. Take pride in the adventures you decide to embark on, knowing you sacrificed another experience to have it. And most importantly, fully immerse yourself in those decisions. Try not to worry about what you didn’t see, and instead become obsessed with what you are seeing. That’s how I try to look at things as a photographer. It’s good to go into a situation with some ideas, but instead of overcommitting to certain views or a specific plan, let yourself adapt to the adventure around you as it unfolds. What are your eyes drawn to as you look around? Let your feet take you there. If you stumble on a place and time of peace, let yourself stop and fully appreciate that moment. Whatever that moment of pause is taking you away from no longer matters. Remember that the scenes you are responding to, and ultimately capturing, are moments in time that are yours forever. And they will never be the same again.